I think I’m a little bit in love with Newlands Village. It has great boutiques, sommeliers, South Africa’s best DVD rental store, and Cassis, a French-style patisserie that makes delicious tarts, moreish macaroons and good tea and coffee. Whenever I feel a little bit down, which is unfortunately not such an unusual occurrence, I like to walk here to clear my head. The junction of Kildare Road and Main Street does wonders to brighten your day, let me tell you.
The best bit about Newlands Village, however, is a pub/restaurant called Barristers. I like to come here every fortnight or so for lunch with friends, and it’s a really great spot.
It’s something of a gastropub in the front, with a smoking courtyard round the back, and a full sit-down restaurant between the two. There’s also a covered deck for when the weather’s warmer. I’ve never eaten at the restaurant bit, but their menu looks very good indeed.
The open-plan pub at the front is perfect for lunch or an afternoon beer. During the weekends it fills up, but never to excess, maintaining a lively atmosphere.
I’ve found it’s a great place to watch sport. There are a few TVs around the place, and the volume on them is never too loud. It’s refreshing to go to a pub that understands that sometimes people like to talk or read while watching rugby or football. Ear-splitting volume on a game that I’m only half interested in is a real turn-off for me.
The reason why Barristers is well patronised during the day is because of their frankly excellent pub lunch special. While some of Barristers’ meals are quite expensive, they have an entire menu that’s only R35 per serving from 12-6 p.m. every day. You can pick up anything from cottage pie to chicken livers to fish & chips for R35. They also apparently do a burger and chips for R25. It’s an extremely good deal. Unfortunately, you’re out of luck if you’re vegetarian, but the non-pub lunch menu has some pretty good veggie dishes for a little extra.
Barristers has all the usual SAB beers - Castle, Hansa, Peroni, etc. - along with Jack Black and Mitchell’s Foresters Draught and Bosuns Bitter on tap. The small brewery draughts are a little bit pricey, but if you have one with a pub lunch, you’re probably still saving. Judging by the patrons every time I go, Jack Black is a pretty big seller.
If you’re coming here to get drunk, you might find yourself a bit out of wallet by the end of the evening. On saying that, though, the draught on average is not as expensive as Foresters’ Arms, which is 750m away, nor is it as crowded as Forries. The service here is much better, too, and it’s a much more comfortable space.
You can get sirloin steak, egg and chips here for R35. You’re highly unlikely to find anything that is this good for this cheap in a pub as welcoming and pretty as this one for miles around. Families with kids, students with hangovers and old men developing them alike all hang out here. The vibe is just nice, you know?
Remember: they don’t do reservations for pub lunches, so get there early on weekends.
SUIP! 14 Mar 2012
Say the word "barrister" and think of the gavel, a judge and a great piece of steak. That’s if you’re in Newlands, Cape Town of course. Situated on Newland's Avenue, Barristers has been around for some time. In fact, reviewing it is almost a little risky what with the pub having a strong local following built up over the last 30 years.
That said, the restaurant did change hands in 2008 and has been through a few renovations too. The Tudor-style interior offers cosy booths and a few large TV screens — providing the perfect place to enjoy a meal with the wife while keeping an eye on that sport score. In fact, if you’re up for an afternoon of sport, then the bar area is a welcome and comfortable spot to settle yourself while enjoying the tipple of your choice.
Barristers isn’t just about sport, however. The restaurant offers a family vibe, without the screaming children and Happy Meals. Sit down and ask for the wine list and you’ll discover a comprehensive range beginning with your lighter whites, right through the reds and into your Ports and fortified wines. Mike Bampfield-Duggan — the owner of Wine Concepts right next door to the restaurant and coincidentally, the writer of iafrica.com’s Wine of the week column — has put the list together himself.
The menu has been kept simple — an indication of the restaurant learning what their patrons love the most. A starter of beautifully cooked tiger prawns served in garlic butter is certainly one way to whet your appetite, and with six of the juicy shellfish served in the pan they were fried in, I wasn’t too aghast at a cost of R55. Certainly money well spent. Another starter — the much-loved deep-fried Camembert served with cranberry sauce and crunchy melba toast — was not quite what I’d expected. The cheese didn’t ooze out the minute I took a knife to it, which I found disappointing.
Barristers is probably most famous for the secret basting sauce served with its steak — just enough for flavour, but not dominating the carefully aged steak’s excellent flavour. A 200g fillet steak requested rare was done to perfection. It was also pleasing to the pocket at R120 with your choice of starch and vegetables. Barristers is by no means breaking the mould, its role is more a case of pleasing the local palate.
The menu does have some interesting twists however, one in the form of the blackened line fish. This was named a “Pacific dory” or “Pangasius”. As far as I know, this fish is fresh water and its flavour and texture are not unlike sole or maybe even hake — commendable choice as a line fish on the part of the restaurant, as this fish can be farmed and its environmental impact is low.
The fish is coated with spices — masala, coriander and traditional Malay spices — and then grilled. It may be just a little too salty for those who prefer to add their own, but the flavour is great and just a bit different from the usual pub fair. I chose a baked potato served with sour cream to accompany this dish and the cool, fresh taste of the sour cream complemented the spices particularly well. At R95, it may be a tad expensive for some, but having eaten many fish dishes at a range of restaurants, I’d say the cost of this dish isn’t unusual.
When all is said and done, dessert is a good judge of any long-standing local joint. The malva pudding at Barrister’s is its signature dessert, served with a generous jug of homemade custard which, along with the rich and syrupy sponge, delighted my taste buds to no end and left me feeling quite content and perhaps just a little guilty. Barristers offers an upmarket version of the solid family restaurant that serves wholesome, hearty fare at reasonable prices.
Bryony Whitehead
Bryony Whitehead 22 Mar 2011
